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#2
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Opened up my Linux box containing a 2-year old K7S5A today to fit a SCSI card and noticed some swollen caps: C425 (bottom of AGP slot - AGP voltage?) Luxon 1500uF 6.3v C58 and C59 (CPU core voltage generator) Luxon 2200uF 6.3v I'm rather fond of my 'S5A which has been running 24/7 for the last 2 years with almost zero problems, so will be taking the time out to replace all the major caps. There are: 8 x 1500uF 6.3v 1 x 1500uF 10v 3 x 1800uF 6.3v (these are not Luxon, but marked OST I.Q) 7 x 2200uF 6.3v All caps are 10mm diameter. Will also replace the PSU as a precaution (it's a 250W.) |
#3
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The eight 3300uF caps (6.3V, 105degC, 10mm diameter, 5mm lead spacing) that failed on my ECS P4VMM2 also carried the mark of "OST IQ". |
#4
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In article <Ea%Lc.97635$ek5.7992@pd7tw2no>, alpha_uma none_such (AT) home (DOT) com> writes The eight 3300uF caps (6.3V, 105degC, 10mm diameter, 5mm lead spacing) that failed on my ECS P4VMM2 also carried the mark of "OST IQ". I've ordered replacement caps from Farnell (here in the UK). I wasn't able to find 1800uF 6.3v, so have ordered 2200uF 6.3v to replace those. These are high-quality, low-impedance, 105C Rubycon caps. For anyone who's interested, the Farnell (www.farnell.com/uk/) part numbers are: 767360 x8 1500uF 6.3v 769071 x1 1500uF 10v 768005 x10 2200uF 6.3v Half an hour's work should get my 'S5A up and running again. I hope! Unless you've got the proper tools to desolder multilayer plate through |
#5
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Mike Tomlinson wrote: In article <Ea%Lc.97635$ek5.7992@pd7tw2no>, alpha_uma none_such (AT) home (DOT) com> writes The eight 3300uF caps (6.3V, 105degC, 10mm diameter, 5mm lead spacing) that failed on my ECS P4VMM2 also carried the mark of "OST IQ". I've ordered replacement caps from Farnell (here in the UK). I wasn't able to find 1800uF 6.3v, so have ordered 2200uF 6.3v to replace those. These are high-quality, low-impedance, 105C Rubycon caps. For anyone who's interested, the Farnell (www.farnell.com/uk/) part numbers are: 767360 x8 1500uF 6.3v 769071 x1 1500uF 10v 768005 x10 2200uF 6.3v Half an hour's work should get my 'S5A up and running again. I hope! Unless you've got the proper tools to desolder multilayer plate through boards, I think you'll find it will take a lot longer than half an hour, even ignoring the time it'll take to get it out of and back into the case. I recently changed ONE capacitor on a motherboard, and I finally had to drill out the old solder to avoid damaging nearby components with excessive heat; I don't recall how long it took start to finish, but I know it was a lot longer than half an hour. You might consider snipping out the old cap from the top, leaving enough wire to connect to the new one -- if I had it to do over, I think that might be the way I'd go. The best solution is probably to send it back to the manufacturer (if they'll repair it at reasonable cost). Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Of course, YMMV. |
#6
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Fixing bad electrolytic caps is not rocket science. It only requires moderately good soldering skills. Al-U |
#7
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On Fri, 23 Jul 2004 22:45:31 GMT, "alpha_uma" <none_such (AT) home (DOT) com> wrote: Fixing bad electrolytic caps is not rocket science. It only requires moderately good soldering skills. Al-U I agree.....with caps, you can just heat the solder and "rock" the capacitor to get the short wire out of the solder hole. |
#8
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"CJT" <abujlehc (AT) prodigy (DOT) net> wrote in message news:410184AB.70805 (AT) prodigy (DOT) net... Mike Tomlinson wrote: In article <Ea%Lc.97635$ek5.7992@pd7tw2no>, alpha_uma none_such (AT) home (DOT) com> writes The eight 3300uF caps (6.3V, 105degC, 10mm diameter, 5mm lead spacing) that failed on my ECS P4VMM2 also carried the mark of "OST IQ". I've ordered replacement caps from Farnell (here in the UK). I wasn't able to find 1800uF 6.3v, so have ordered 2200uF 6.3v to replace those. These are high-quality, low-impedance, 105C Rubycon caps. For anyone who's interested, the Farnell (www.farnell.com/uk/) part numbers are: 767360 x8 1500uF 6.3v 769071 x1 1500uF 10v 768005 x10 2200uF 6.3v Half an hour's work should get my 'S5A up and running again. I hope! Unless you've got the proper tools to desolder multilayer plate through boards, I think you'll find it will take a lot longer than half an hour, even ignoring the time it'll take to get it out of and back into the case. I recently changed ONE capacitor on a motherboard, and I finally had to drill out the old solder to avoid damaging nearby components with excessive heat; I don't recall how long it took start to finish, but I know it was a lot longer than half an hour. You might consider snipping out the old cap from the top, leaving enough wire to connect to the new one -- if I had it to do over, I think that might be the way I'd go. The best solution is probably to send it back to the manufacturer (if they'll repair it at reasonable cost). Sorry to be the bearer of bad news. Of course, YMMV. From what Mike has written in his message, I'd bet that he is an electronics expert. I don't think your recommendation would apply to Mike. |
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It is NOT a good idea to send the motherboard back to the manufacturer for repair unless the board is still under warranty. Personally, I don't trust them anymore. If bad caps is the only problem with the motherboard, I can fix the bad caps myself just as good as any decent technician. |
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If the board is already out of warranty, then fixing the bad caps yourself is better than paying someone else to fix it for you provided that you have the technical know-how because you can buy better quality caps yourself, and spend as much time as you like to do the job well. |
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Fixing bad electrolytic caps is not rocket science. It only requires moderately good soldering skills. Al-U |
#9
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I sent one in which had a bunch of bad caps and the manufacturer turned it around in a couple of days for 20 bucks. I couldn't even see the repairs. That's hard to beat. |
#10
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"CJT" <abujlehc (AT) prodigy (DOT) net> wrote in message news:4101C142.3020300 (AT) prodigy (DOT) net... snip I sent one in which had a bunch of bad caps and the manufacturer turned it around in a couple of days for 20 bucks. I couldn't even see the repairs. That's hard to beat. It is hard to beat twenty dollars! Does that include shipping both ways? |
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BTW, did you send yours directly back to ECS? Where are they located? How long is the official warranty for a typical ECS motherboard? One year, two years, or less? |
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It costs me about 8 US$ to replace eight 3300uF electrolytics at DigiKey prices, but, of course, I have to buy more than just the 8 caps from DigiKey in order to meet their minimum order amount without "penalty". And, of course, time is money too. But, as you know, the tremendous satisfaction later that you diagnosed it and fixed it yourself--priceless! I wonder if the repair of the bad caps on your motherboard was done by a machine instead of a human hand. Are you sure they didn't just replace your board with another (used) one? |
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Al-U |
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