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#11
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"markm75" <markm75c (AT) msn (DOT) com> wrote in message news:1168225855.790543.30160 (AT) 38g2000cwa (DOT) googlegroups.com... I did run across this from one site: http://www.bluejeanscable.com/articl...videocable.htm "Over reasonable run lengths (say, under 100 feet), these losses are not really significant so long as one is dealing with a cable having a reasonably-sized center conductor (say, 22 AWG or larger)" That's one of those things which may be true in the majority of cases, although center-conductor size isn't the only thing which determines cable losses at high frequencies. Loss also isn't the only concern here - again, proper termination impedance is the other big issue, since on long runs "ghosting" can become a serious problem. I searched around on this.. it seems alot of people would just use the RG59 due to ease and risk the loss part I guess.. I'm still hoping I'll be lucky and just get a decent run of component and wont need to do that (unfortunately my budget is tight.. i was hoping to keep the cabling under $200). I also found notes stating that one should make sure its solid copper, not copper coated.. center being solid or stranded wire.. and not rated for TV or satellite (uses conductors not all copper). It's OK advice as far as it goes, although I would have no issues with trying a stranded center conductor here. Beyond that, well, you'd really want to look at the actual cable specifications rather than trying to guess what's best based on the cable construction. Sorry on the reiteration part here.. but I guess it could be hit or miss if I try an active splitter (at least 70MHZ or more) ranging in price from $15 to say $50... Again, you can try it - if it doesn't meet you needs, maybe you could return it. At worst, you'd be out the $15-50 or maybe you'd find some other use for the thing. But what if I skip the active splitter and just do the switch.. a simple selector.. a 2 in 1 (either component or VGA, active based).. I've read many blogs where folks have done this without any problems (and some who said to stay away from X brand, etc). A switch can also work well if (a) you have no real need to drive multiple displays at the same time, and (b) the switch is again a good-quality unit. Poor-quality switchgear will be a source of impedance problems, and therefore ghosting. ps.. how did you find my post.. I'm curious.. I regularly read the comp.sys.ibm.pc.hardware.video newsgroup, which is where this discussion is showing up. Bob M. |

#12
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Have you ever used or know of anyone who has tried a device like this: http://www.datapro.net/products/CSV-955A.html I've just received it.. I am going to test it tonight... |
#13
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"markm75" <markm75c (AT) msn (DOT) com> wrote in message news:1168288758.621114.160840 (AT) 38g2000cwa (DOT) googlegroups.com... Have you ever used or know of anyone who has tried a device like this: http://www.datapro.net/products/CSV-955A.html I've just received it.. I am going to test it tonight... I'm not familiar with that specific device, no. From the looks of the thing, what it is probably doing is simply stripping the syncs off the green video, and putting them out as separate TTL sync on the VGA connector (fewer and fewer VGA inputs are happy with sync-on-green video). It's not really doing anything by way of a "transcoding" as I would use the term beyond that, and I don't even know if it's buffering (i.e., has a unity-gain amplifier inside) the signal before shipping it out to the VGA. All I can really say is - let us know how it turns out. Bob M. |
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