As a follow up, I picked up my printer from the shop today. I was immediately
suspicious when they showed me a test print that looked terrible, but I just
wanted
my printer back. They did reset the 'magic' counter and cleaned the pads.
However, I was back to almost where I started with the color printing. The Cyan

color was still only giving partial results on the nozzle check. I again ran my
cleaning
cartridge, but it didn't help much. I also ran some test cyan printings and
learned that
these should be done in high photo mode to be sure all the tiny ink jets for
that color
are being used. Again, no help. I then ran the cleaner cartridge using the
same cyan
test pattern in the full color mode. After switching back to the cyan ink
cartridge and
a few purge printings to clear the cleaner, I thought that would do it. Nope.

I now have a 5 and 1/2 color cartridge printer. I may have to be satisfied with
that.
The shop says they cleaned everything, but maybe they missed something. The
other
colors look good, but they did so befor the repair.

Running out of ideas,

Sherwin D.

sherwindu wrote:

sherwindu wrote:
If you wanted to keep the printer you should have dealt with Epson.

My Epson 1270 shut down suddenly because the internal counter hit its
limit for clogged pads. I did find a reset by searching Deja News that
did not involve installing any software, but required pushing the front
panel buttons in a specific sequence. You might try a similar search
for your model.

I was totally ticked off that this happened without warning. For years I
haven't been buying Epson inks, but inks directly from an ink
manufacturer. They are an excellent color match for the Epson inks and
are superior to the Epson inks. They have never clogged once in my CIS
system, even when I don't use it for many months, and my own fade tests
show them to be longer lasting then the original Epson OEM inks. Epson
cartridges really had a tendency to clog. When I last checked, they were
the supplier for the Plug-N-Play Mediastreet inks, but it's nice to get
it directly from the manufacturer. Then you know you are getting the
same thing every time, since they report any formulation change.
Unfortunately, I don't have the name of this company where I am now, and
I can't remember it, or I'd post it. But non-Epson inks can be better
than Epson inks without any question.

Joe

Joseph Miller wrote:
Then you should have no complaints!!!!!!! :-D
All of the professional photographers doubt that.

I doubt that. Which relabeler do you work for.
It is impossible to know because they will NOT tell you.
The real formulator does not market under their own brand name and one
will only sell in gallons.
Of Course :-!

Epson stopped making use of front panel button sequences to program or
alter the EPROM states several generations ago. I do not believe the
R1800 or R2200/2400 allow for the kind of resetting, nor do most of the
C and CX printers. Instead, proprietary software is now involved.

Art

Joseph Miller wrote:

I see now why people call you a jerk. I'm not used to being called a
liar. Everything I said in my post is the truth.

measekite wrote:

I guess you did read what I wrote very carefully. My Epson printer did
not shut down because of the ink I was using. It shut down because of
that counter that keeps track of how many cleanings have gone on, which
is the subject of this thread. There should have been a warning in the
manual that this would happen. Epson wanted most of the cost of a new
printer to fix it. I did the button-push sequence, cleaned the pads
that had accumulated the ink, and was back in business.
What do I care what professional photographers think, or rather, what
you say they think? I worked my way through college as a photographer
who did all of his own processing and printing in his own professional
lab. I said what I said for the following reasons:

1. They don't clog my printer. Ever. Epson inks regularly clogged my
1270. There are thousands of posts on this subject here and elsewhere
about this printer. Many people got rid of it solely because of
clogging. I consider an ink that doesn't clog my printer superior to one
that does.

2. I tested the longevity of the inks in a a variety of ways. Maybe you
heard of the the famous "orange shift." I could make the Epson inks go
through this shift in weeks with my accelerated aging tests, but these
other inks lasted a lot longer.

3. I did not use any color-measuring devices. I just looked very
critically at the prints I made and did a direct comparison with many
prints made with Epson inks. They were an excellent color match.
I am a scientist in a university with no connection to any ink business.
Doubt what you will. To this date, after nearly three years with a
Niagra CIS system using these inks, I have not had a single clog. Not
one. I have never had to even run the head cleaning program, though of
course it runs automatically after the printer has been off and is
turned back on.
I was able to find out on the internet. It's amazing what information
you can find if you know how to search. I called them up, and they
confirmed it, reluctantly I will say.
A "real formulator" will sell under its brand name. As I recall, the
minimum was pints, not quarts.
I had to buy so much that it has been a long time since I last ordered.
I remember that the company is in New Jersey. I have at home the
original paperwork and can supply the company name here if anyone is
interested.
How do you know? Have you tested them all? Epson inks are not provided
to them by some divine being, but by a factory using well-known
chemicals. There is equipment less than 100 yards from me that would
allow one to analyze Epson ink and tell you exactly what is in it. This
isn't magic. It could well be that the formulator I bought the inks from
is even more high-tech and advanced than the Epson formulator, though
maybe you doubt a US company could be that way. Perhaps you believe
only Asian technology is capable of high-quality inks.

You seem to be on a mission to stop people from using non-OEM inks.
There can be valid reasons for staying with the OEM inks, but many
people, including me, have many years of experience that show that
non-OEM inks can be just as good, if not better than the original. As a
experimental scientist I have enjoyed looking into this matter, and I
have no doubt about it. The 1000's of prints I have made over years are
proof.

Joe

snip

There sure is:

Less Risk of a printhead clog
Less cleaning cycles
More consistency
Better Quality Results
More Longevity
Slower Fading
Multiple sources for the same thing.
Totally inaccurate
Wilhelm Labs employ professional scientists, keyword professional, and
they seem to have different conclusions.

On Wed, 16 May 2007 16:06:00 -0700, measekite <inkystinky (AT) oem (DOT) com> wrote:

What an asshole !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

PLONK !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Brian..........

Kill filters - The Enema Of The Usenet !!!!!

Might I suggest you do yourself (and many others on this list) a favor
and filter the poster in question from your email. It will save you a
lot of time, and it will be one less person receiving his relatively
incoherent ramblings. Most of us longer term active members have
filtered his postings from our email. For a while, he kept on changing
his email address, so it took a bit of work to keep up with, but he
seems to have settled into an account now.

Even if he does change his email address, it is well worth the time to
filter him out again. I call his contributions "toxic compost" and
treat them as such.

Art


Joseph Miller wrote: